England the last obstacle on nation's rollercoaster ride
By Mark Herbert (The Times)
April 14, 2006
PICTURE a small boat set on a sea gleaming like hammered gun metal in the afternoon sun. It is so far from land that the peaks of Tobago’s north are a jagged shadow low on the horizon. The only sounds are the slop of waves on the hull, the caw of seabirds — and the booming voice of the skipper. “You can write that headline now, my English friend,” he cackles. “Soca Warriors EAT the English Lions.”
Even while fishing in the middle of the Caribbean, you cannot escape the World Cup.
Tobago needs an escape right now. It has very different values to Trinidad and it treasures its sense of peace and community but these are being eroded by the malevolence seeping from its sister isle. Britons were advised against visiting by UK tour operators last month because of the increase in crime and the inability of the authorities to stop it.
If Trinidad and Tobago is a nation divided, the World Cup represents one thin strand of unity. To talk about the Soca Warriors elicits huge smiles and a clear sense of pride.
Tangible, too, is the sense that they will do well at England’s expense. There are many who compare the Warriors to Northern Ireland, having seen the latter win 3-0 in Tobago two years ago then beat England in a World Cup qualifying tie a year later.
The skipper of the skiff had already taken advantage of the generous odds of 1,000-1 on Trinidad & Tobago lifting the trophy, and was sniffing out the best value for a modest side-bet that they would beat England on the way. “Dwight Yorke has things to prove,” he said. “He was forced out of Old Trafford and he wants to grind Becks’ nose in the dirt.”
Yorke, the nation’s captain, was born in Tobago and is dear to his people. He has a neat, compact stadium named after him to the north of Scarborough, the island’s capital, although it is more likely to be staging car auctions than football matches now, since the domestic campaign has ended.
The change in season has allowed the local media to take a breather from an extraordinary 12-month rollercoaster of coverage of the road to Germany in favour of the new cricket season, one in which the Caribbean is gearing up to host the World Cup next year.
But it is clear to see where the nation’s heart lies. The Warriors are everywhere: in competitions to win tickets to Germany, on banners by the roadside, on posters in the shops, on T-shirts in the markets, and on snacks and beverages. On the beaches, there is only one game in town.
“Doesn’t anyone play beach cricket here any more?” I asked some skinny teenagers taking a break from an extraordinarily competitive kickabout on Stonehaven Bay. “Sure man,” one replied. “Tourists.”
“What about you?” I persisted. “Naah,” he replied. “It’s an ol’ man’s game.”
“And who do you think will win the World Cup?” I asked in all earnestness. I should have known better. “Warriors will win,” he said, and the rest picked up the chant.
You may call it blind optimism, but so much more is at stake than mere progress in a sports tournament for the benevolent half of this nation that you cannot help but wish them well. At England’s expense? Well, there’s room for both sides after the group stages. To hell with Sweden and Paraguay.
