Mardi Gras !
By: Liz Leydon (scotsman.com) SOCA - IT FEEDS YOUR soul." I am in the smallest aircraft on the Tarmac at Tobago's Crown Point International Airport and the passenger to my left is the largest lady I have ever seen - and the most beautiful. More importantly, she is preparing me for Carnival in Trinidad.
Leaving Tobago for Trinidad Piarco International Airport on a 20-minute night flight after just one day on the island is difficult. A quick tour has offered a glimpse of what Tobago has to offer: the clean, inviting beaches, the warm oceans (Caribbean and Atlantic); the swaying palm trees and lush flora and fauna of the rainforest as you travel upwards and inland; the fantastic seafood; and the temptation just to sit back and enjoy the tranquillity of beauty spots such as Englishman's Bay and Pigeon Point. But it is not to be. The hectic, heady lure of Carnival is the main attraction for this trip, and a mystery which is yet to unfold. I have one clue in hand - soca music.
But what is Carnival? To call it a mere pre-Lenten costume parade does it a grave disservice. Imagine the build-up to the hottest, hippest, most pulsating street party on earth in which 40,000 people are invited to take part.
Carnival's roots go back more than 200 years to when the French plantation owners began their masquerades. Today, locals save, prepare and plan their costumes (think bright, sequined and skimpy as a Vegas showgirl, and don't forget the feathers) for the whole year. Events, competitions and parties kick into high gear after Boxing Day, with the excitement building up for weeks before culminating in the parades ahead of Ash Wednesday. The final week of the festival is so popular that booking your flight and hotel well in advance is essential.
Any Scot who rooted for Jason Scotland and the Soca Warriors in the 2006 World Cup owes a debt of duty to visit Trinidad and Tobago. Originally occupied by Amerindian tribes, these Caribbean Islands were disputed territories fought over by Britain, France and Holland. Britain gained control in 1797 and over the next 20 years brought in 10,000 African slaves to work on sugar, cotton and indigo plantations. Slavery was abolished in 1830; the islands finally gained independence in 1962 and became a republic in 1976. The cultural diversity in the region today is a result of the islands' past.
Trinidad, just off the coast of Venezuela, is the birthplace of the steel drum or "pan", and has an exciting musical history combining elements of calypso and Indian drums. The soundtrack for Carnival is soca (a calypso offshoot with a laid-back bassline) and the reason for my swift departure for Trinidad is to make it to the ultimate concert - the International Soca Monarch Finals - to decide the musical king (or queen) of Carnival 2K7 from a host of up-and-coming acts. Held at the National Stadium in Trinidad's Port of Spain, Soca Monarch is a loud, sweaty, MTV-covered introduction to Carnival, five days of celebrations prior to Lent where sleep is not on the schedule. Home-grown talent competes with acts from as far away as Japan. Each performer has one song to win over the audience - one song that lasts up to 15 minutes and includes props, dancers, chats with the crowds and, in one case, breathtaking fire-eaters on stilts.
While Shurwayne Winchester's manic rendition of Open the Gate is a crowd-pleaser, it is Neil "Iwer" George who "mashes up" the Hasely Crawford stadium, to capture the title of International Soca Monarch 2007 and set the mood for Carnival.
The following day, it is the turn of the children of the islands to take centre stage. The Junior Parade of the Bands through Woodford Square to the stunning Queen's Park Savannah give a taste of things to come for the big adult parade, while the Downtown Junior Carnival along St Vincent Street in Port of Spain showcases the dancing talent of the children who come to masquerade (or "play mas" as it is known locally). As balmy day turns into promising night, the fun keeps on going. The National Panorama Final for 2K7 is held at Skinner Park in San Fernando, putting the best steel bands on stage for an appreciative audience.
By Sunday, it is time to choose the Carnival king and queen. This is a costume competition where each participant performs in a Broadway-worthy number. Think music, fireworks and special effects. Think costumes the size of a house. You are not even close.
Back at the hotel by midnight, there is only time for two and a half hours' sleep before waking up for the first road parade for adults. Yes, it's the middle of the night but this event can't be missed. J'Ouvert has its origins in a dark side of the island's history: the slave trade. This mud festival - or "dirty mas" - takes place before dawn and is a throwback to the time when slaves would have their own celebration before their masters' Carnival. Festival newcomers often head for organised events in the suburbs to avoid the intense festivities in the centre of Port of Spain, where revellers can be confronted and challenged by intimidating and argumentative "blue devils". Experienced J'Ouvert players know to wear their oldest clothes as the whole point of the event is to cover others (and get covered yourself) in anything from mud to paint to - if you are lucky - chocolate.
Back at the hotel as the sun comes up, showers are set up outside for revellers to wash off the caked layers before grabbing a few hours' sleep ahead of the first day of parades.
By 11am, everyone is ready for the dress rehearsal. Wearing key parts of their costumes, and following the trucks associated with their bands, the masqueraders parade through the Trinidad capital, snaking leisurely towards Queen's Park Savannah, past what will become judging stations the next day. Unlike the informality of J'Ouvert, where a few unaffiliated gatecrashers get to join in, the modern Carnival is strictly controlled and if you are not registered and wearing an official costume, watching by the roadside is your only option.
In days gone by, those playing mas would interact more with the crowds, but taking part has become a serious sport, requiring marathon-like training to get in shape for the long road ahead. While the band refreshment trucks offer the island's famous rum and other drinks, smart revellers know a cup of ice chips and plenty of sunscreen will ensure they last the pace.
Tempted to stay out all night after Monday Mas? Large outdoor party events, such as Insomnia, provide options for anyone who doesn't think sleep is the best preparation for Tuesday, when Carnival really takes off.
In full costume and make-up by 7am, revellers don't march, they dance in the streets. This is the ultimate showcase for the gyrating local ladies dressed in showgirl costumes (and a good pair of sports shoes). And you won't be able to ignore the insanely catchy refrain of the official road march song, Trinidadian hometown hero Machel Montano's Jumbie. It is sexy, flirty, but in the end just good, clean fun.
After Carnival, the dual appeal of Trinidad and Tobago becomes as clear as the waters surrounding the islands. Back on Tobago, it is time to unwind, try some coconut water and find a spot on the beach. Because there is still the rainforest and the Buccoo coral reef to explore, the history of the island to learn and quality leather goods to shop for at Scarborough Port. Then there is the exquisite seafood (try Jemma's in the north Hamlet of Speyside or the Shirvan Waterfall Restaurant) and the delicious dark chocolate, washed down with some very special rum.
Trinidad and Tobago may not have the brochure-like glossiness of some of the other destinations in the region, but visiting these sister islands is an adventure that makes it clear life isn't just for living, it is for celebrating.
Factfile Virgin Atlantic (tel: 08705 747747,
www.virginatlantic.com) flies from London Gatwick to Tobago once a week. Fares start from £385, including taxes.
WHERE TO STAY Tobago Rooms at the Hilton Tobago Hotel and Golf Spa start from £70 per deluxe double per night in low season, and from £175 per night as part of a three-day package in high season. Tel: 0870 590 9090, or visit
www.hiltoncaribbean.com Trinidad Rooms at The Marriott Courtyard in Port of Spain start at £80. Tel: 0800 221222, or visit
www.marriott.com AND THERE'S MORE For more detail on Trinidad and Tobago visit
www.visittnt.com or e-mail info@tdc.com
To find out about taking part in Carnival, visit
www.carnivaltribe.com Keep T&T100 (£8) for your departure tax upon leaving the islands.
Delta to Port of Spain.To celebrate these new flights from JFK,
Delta is offering special one-way fares (round-trip purchase is required). Customers should act fast, however, as tickets must be purchased by July 12, with travel completed by April 30, 2008. Port of Spain, Trinidad and Tobago $199.00
